Tea With A View
When first built, the castle was a simple motte-and-bailey affair, essentially a mound of raised earth topped by a wooden frame. They were terribly popular throughout the 10th and 11th century and the Normans brought them over flatpacked. Basically, prefab castles. Although few remain, there is a motte and bailey at Windsor Castle that is still used to store royal documents – nobody could ever accuse the Queen of wanton waste.

The same cannot exactly be said of William of Normandy and his descendants. Immediately after his coronation on Christmas Day 1066, he issued orders for Hastings Castle to be knocked down and rebuilt in rather more impressive stone, impenetrable from three sides. Three years later, he gave the castle and the whole town of Hastings (those were the days) to Robert, Count of Eu, who founded the Collegiate Church of St Mary within its walls – the chapel forms the best part of the existing ruins.
Over the ensuing centuries, various owners left their mark and during the reign of Henry II a full makeover programme was undertaken. And why not? On a clear day, there is no finer aspect. It was demolished in 1216 by King John for fear of it falling into French hands. Henry III consequently rebuilt it, but the unforgiving storms of the 13th century took their toll and large chunks fell into the sea.
The church was dissolved by Henry VIII and by the 17th century what remained fell to the Pelham family who used the site for farming. In 1951 it was bought for £3,000 by Hastings Corporation. Since Victorian times, it has been a tourist attraction and one that keeps business flowing at the West Hill Cafe, sited on its lower flanks. Open 364 days a year, the terrace of this modest, family-run place offers arguably the best view that you can get with a cup of tea without having to lay claim to the realm.
Next week: The neighbour from Hell? Me?