Tea With A View

Castles are expensive, says Sam Taylor. But tea with a view is priceless
Shortly before he triumphed on the muddied fields of Battle, William of Normandy commissioned the building of two castles on the south coast. Forward planning? Arrogance? Or just pure property speculation? Who knows. The first was at Pevensey and the second was Hastings Castle on the West Hill. Unlike those of us faced with rigid planning controls and building regulations, William had no opposition to him bagging a prime clifftop spot on what is now a stretch of outstanding natural beauty. Nor did he have the small issue of construction costs; forced labour being in plentiful supply at the time.

When first built, the castle was a simple motte-and-bailey affair, essentially a mound of raised earth topped by a wooden frame. They were terribly popular throughout the 10th and 11th century and the Normans brought them over flatpacked. Basically, prefab castles. Although few remain, there is a motte and bailey at Windsor Castle that is still used to store royal documents – nobody could ever accuse the Queen of wanton waste.

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The same cannot exactly be said of William of Normandy and his descendants. Immediately after his coronation on Christmas Day 1066, he issued orders for Hastings Castle to be knocked down and rebuilt in rather more impressive stone, impenetrable from three sides. Three years later, he gave the castle and the whole town of Hastings (those were the days) to Robert, Count of Eu, who founded the Collegiate Church of St Mary within its walls – the chapel forms the best part of the existing ruins.

Over the ensuing centuries, various owners left their mark and during the reign of Henry II a full makeover programme was undertaken. And why not? On a clear day, there is no finer aspect. It was demolished in 1216 by King John for fear of it falling into French hands. Henry III consequently rebuilt it, but the unforgiving storms of the 13th century took their toll and large chunks fell into the sea.

The church was dissolved by Henry VIII and by the 17th century what remained fell to the Pelham family who used the site for farming. In 1951 it was bought for £3,000 by Hastings Corporation. Since Victorian times, it has been a tourist attraction and one that keeps business flowing at the West Hill Cafe, sited on its lower flanks. Open 364 days a year, the terrace of this modest, family-run place offers arguably the best view that you can get with a cup of tea without having to lay claim to the realm.

Next week: The neighbour from Hell? Me?