This was a dish served to George V, who was recovering from septicaemia and an abscess on his lung in Bognor Regis. ‘Bugger Bognor’ were said to have been his last words, uttered in response to his doctor, who promised that he would soon be well enough to recuperate in the Sussex seaside town. The reality is rather more prosaic. The people of Bognor had asked if they could rename the town Bognor Regis in honour of his stay. ‘Bugger Bognor,’ he growled to his private secretary, Arthur Stamfordham. Nevertheless, their wish was granted.
Dishes for convalesents were easily digestible, involving all manner of beef jellies, chicken custards and a thousand ways with eggs. Despite their simplicity, preparing them was usually anything but. The original recipe contains bechamel sauce, but with all the butter and cream involved it’s an embellishment too far.
SERVES 4
◆ 4 medium baking potatoes, washed
◆ 100g butter
◆ 100ml milk
◆ 100ml double cream
◆ Big pinch of salt
◆ 8 thin slices of ham
◆ 4 eggs, poached
◆ Handful of Gruyere or Comte cheese
◆ Crisp green salad, to serve
1. Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7.
2. Bake the potatoes for an hour until the skins are deep brown and crisp. When cool enough to handle, slice off the tops and scoop the soft flesh out into a bowl. Add the butter, milk, cream and salt to the bowl and mix well together.
3. Heat the grill to high.
4. Line the inside of each potato shell with two slices of ham, then spoon the potato mixture back into the shells, leaving a good 5cm gap at the top of each. Add the poached eggs, top with the cheese, then brown under the fierce grill and top with black pepper.
5. Serve with a crisp green salad.
